About those first few days in Lisbon...

I feel like i should go back and fill you in on some of the details i skipped over in Lisbon. So here you go:
In our first day together we took the train to Belem--a neighborhood in Lisbon that is full of reminders of the glory days of Portugal as a world power at the forefront of exploration.
We first saw the monastery of the jeronimeos (spelling? Monks dedicated to st. Jerome i believe) that was built with the money of said age of exploration. It's a perfect example of the "manuelline" style; name after a king whose architects were fans of fractals i think. Every straight line sprouts another layer of intricacy resulting in really delicately carved stone spires. The monastery was organized around a central courtyard (as per usual i suppose) and honestly, i could imagine enjoying the monk's life in that kind of place. The refectory was filled with elaborate tile mosaics (the portuguese love tile mosaics) depicting stories from the life of Joseph (Joseph of the technicolor dreamcoat fame) I explained what each panel was about to the girls but i am pretty sure they got sick of that fast.
We got lunch at a little restaurant recommended by a guide book. This was when lisa convinced me to split grilled sardines with her (i dont care if they are a specialty of portugal, they are tiny, full of bones and smell!) we then made our pilgrimage to a pastry shop that was founded 200 years ago by monks strapped for cash. There we ate the delicious cream pastries that are iconic of Portugal (think beignets and cafe dumond). They more than made up for the sardines.
Our last stops in Belem were along the waterfront where nearly six centuries ago explorers set out to find new lands. There was a great monument to them shaped like the giant prow of a ship carved in stone. Climbing up each side where some of the most famous explorers and their priests (Gold! Glory! God!) I commented that it was no wonder Portugal went into decline--there was not a single woman setting out with them.
Lastly we climbed the famous tower of Belem (i assume it is famous, it was on an awful lot of postcards). All i know is that this is the kind of tower i'd like to defend against an invading horde (assuming i was well-stocked with food and water). The only way to get to the upper levels is by climbing this narrow corkscrew of a staircase. It is so narrow that they have a complicated system of red and green arrows with timers to keep tourists going the same direction (no room to pass!). You could totally hold off an army with just a few guys blocking the stairwell. There were also awesome lookout niches carved on each floor in the corners. (I think the tower originally served to keep an eye out for invaders). Rewa and I each sat in a niche and realized we could chat with each other across the parapets. Again, words fail to capture it but i felt like i could "play pretend" in that tower forever.

That night we went in search of Gijinha and Fado--two icons of portuguese culture. We found a Gijinha bar (literally just a walk up counter) that only served gijinha (cherry liquer) in tiny plastic cups for a euro a piece. It was perfect and delicious. This bar apparently does well by being insanely specific because it has been in business for over 100 years. As we walked on in search of some soulful fado i was reminded of my days in the D.A.R.E. program. I kid you not, an unshaven, shifty-looking guy dressed in black leather and rubbing his hands together walked up to us and said in a low voice "want some drugs?" Wtf? Sometimes people look exactly as you expect them to i guess. We politely declined his offer (as well as several more from shady characters on this well-travelled touristy street). I guess the tourists are a big part of the local drug market?

We followed the advice of a guide book and just went walking in the Alfama district and listened for fado. We passed the famous Club de Fado but decided not to pay the $20 to enter (and $5 per glass of port--which is outrageous by Lisbon standards). Instead, we walked down some dark and narrow alleyways (i was nervous) but it totally payed off when we heard some applause from a distance. We found this tiny restaurant where a Japanese woman was singing the iconic portuguese soul music (odd). She was followed by a student then the bouncer and finally a cook from the kitchen. It was GREAT! I couldnt understand the words but felt moved nonetheless (could have also been the port i was drinking). This restaurant was so small we were packed in at tables and at one point i saw the cook run outside and bang on a neighbor's door for a bucket of ice. One singer was particularly good but we were distracted by his missing shirt button that left an opening for his belly button. I suggested to rewa that perhaps his belly button was the true source of the singing? In short, a ridiculous and fun night. So the guidebooks are right, you can actually just go to a neighborhood and follow your ears to a great concert!